WWA Info Exchange

There are probably more appropriate places to ask but ...

Years ago we replaced our electrical HW heater with an indirect propane fired boiler. The heater circuit, 220v, is still available and on a wall where I'm planning on building in a unit to hold all the A/V equipment in our media room. Now, I've done a fair amount of electrical work and understand the principles. I was considering using the two hot legs of the 220v circuit, splitting them into two 110v services to some outlets to power the equipment. I'm not sure now if this is a good idea since the breaker is rated at far more amperage than regular outlets. Does this sound like a bad idea?

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis

I've done it before for my woodworking shop years ago. I took the 220V intended for the electric range in the house and ran it to the garage workshop breaker panel. It worked. Is a good idea? I'm not an electrician. I had a commercial electrician connect the breakers in the garage workshop and he said it would work. He never did tell me if it was a good idea.

That's my story, and I've stuck to it for 30 years now

(Oh yeah, I never did use the electric range. I used a crockpot, electric skillet, outdoor grill and microwave for cooking.)

Verna

_________________
Verna
Indianapolis, IN

that's where I plan on 'getting' my shop power this summer. Prior owners had an electric range... we have gas. I'm going to 'steal' that 60 amp breaker and run a line out to the shop finally.

_________________
Ned

Madison Woodsmith.
WWACNYAUX #1
2B1ASK1

See if the junction box has a neutral wire in it (white) as you will need that to get 2 ea 120VAC legs out of the 220 VAC. (pleas don't use the ground wire to provide the neutral connection).

A 220 circuit should have a dual breaker with the two toggles connected together so they both switch off is one side overloads. You don't need this for 120VAC, but it just means that if on 120VAC side shorts you will lose both legs.

A 20amp 120VAC circuit will have a different outlet rating that indicates the higher power available. The main concern with higher power circuits is that the wire is sized to handle the power, you already have this in place. If you have a high amp breaker 40,60 amp, you should change it out for a regular one, you can leave the wiring intact. You want the breaker to blow when something goes wrong, sometimes things go enough wrong to cause a problem without a dead short to blow the breaker.

Generally speaking you want the breaker sized to handle the expected load and not totally over spec'd

Have done lots of wiring, but not "certified" in anything

That's the issue: the wiring is sized for the heavier load that the existing breakers could/should handle give the heavier current draw of a water heater. I'm not all that comfy about switching out breakers in the panel but I agree - that should be done if I intend to use the circuit to power 'normal' convenience outlet loads.

Guess I best call an electrician.

Thanks for the feedback.

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis

Most water heaters are 220 volts @ 30 amps with no neutral. Neutrals are needed for 110 volt circuits and 30 amps would be to much current for a standard outlet creating a potential fire hazard.
I amuse that your house is run in non-metallic sheathed (aka Romex) not in conduit. You would have to fish over a new run. If it was conduit you could simply fish new wires through. The building codes here require the use of EMT conduit in all residential and commercial applications.

_________________
"It is not a mistake it is a learning experience"
Monte

As it turns out, the old heater service doesn't terminate where I thought it did. I'm not interested in tearing up another wall to find it.

End of project.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions none the less.

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis