WWA Info Exchange

I've had fun building the cabinets for the kitchen, vanities for the bathrooms, laying hardwood floor, trim, etc., etc., and have been able to hide or otherwise disguise the majority of my boo-boo's. Currently I'm building this base cabinet for upstairs. I say to myself, "Self, just slow down, be patient, be careful, and you really can build something you won't have to apologize for". So the taking of time part I got down pat; I'm three months into it and have most of the parts cut out and the face frame made. Carefully checking each layout mark, carefully clamping and gluing the face frame I have, what I thought, was a perfectly square frame with three interior stiles, top & bottom rails.

Go to layout the three interior partitions using the frame as a guide. Only to find one of the stiles is a small 32nd out of parallel with it's neighbors. What the ....?

Now I thought I'd checked my steel square several times in the past but did so again and using a marking knife this time instead of a pencil, sure 'nuff, it's out just that little bit, the same as the out of square stile.

Grrrrrr

OK, I've read about peening either the inside or outside corner to either open or close a steel square. Has anyone actually done this and can it correct a square that's out this amount?

It's times like these that I think I should have take up raising rabbits - much higher success rate from what I've heard.

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis

Hey Dennis,

Yeah, it works. You need to mark off a triangular section with the apex on the interior corner for closing, or the apex on the exterior corner for opening. Then, start peening, and checking regularly. Multiple smaller changes are better than larger changes. If you wack it too hard, you will start moving things in the wrong plane, and your square won't lay flat.

Tom

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"There is no path to peace, peace is the path."
Mohandas K. Ghandi

Yes, I have done it and yes, it works.
If you are trying to "open" up the square to 90, make a prick punch dot (or more) near the inside corner. Some people say to punch both sides, but not right on top of each other.
If you need to "close" the angle down, punch near the outside corner (or heel) in one or two places.
The idea is to stretch the steel one way or the other. Check it after each punch for square. If need be make more punches or hit them harder until it checks out square.
When you do the punching, use a solid steel base (anvil or heavy vise) for back up, and smack 'er good!!
It has been a long time since I've seen a true square with out a few prick punch dots on it.

Rog

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Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.

OK, thanks, guys. Guess that's my project for tomorrow.

I've got a set of pin punches that go down to about 1/8" diameter. You say use a prick punch, Rog. That makes it sound like one needs a punch with more of a pointed end. Sorry, I'm a little punchy right now so wanna make sure of the terminology.

_________________
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium

Cheers - Dennis

Hey Dennis,

Center punch (not a pin punch), same thing.

Tom

_________________
"There is no path to peace, peace is the path."
Mohandas K. Ghandi

OK, OK..... CENTER PUNCH.....PRICK PUNCH...It's all the same to me.
Just a difference in terminology and what area of the language you live in.
DON"T use a pin punch!!! You will bend it all to heck before you make a dent in the square especially if it is steel and not aluminum.

Rog

_________________
Dont badmouth no strangers, they just friends you aint met yet.

An ounce of responsibility is worth a pound of State and Federal laws.

I spent most of my money on woodworking
tools and beer, the rest I just wasted.

In an effort to help you avoid such problems in the future, here's my procedure for laying out/cutting stiles/rails for cabinets.

Cut all stiles and rails to length, using a cutlist and stops on your saw. Make sure to label your parts as you cut them- which cabinet, what part. Cabinets are numbered left to right per wall starting with bases, and then uppers.

Rails butt into stiles, so I pocket drill the ends of rails. This goes for midstiles that butt into rails and midrails too.

This is the part that will help you avoid the problem you now have:
Lay all Left/Right stiles parallel with one end flush, and the back side up. Using the flush end as your reference point, measure, and mark out with a speed square and pencil where all rails butt into the stiles. Make a mark for each edge of the rails.
Repeat this procedure on rails, for where any midstiles butt into the rails.

I'm also using elevation drawings, as well as a cutlist, so I consult it when assembling the faceframe.

I assemble the faceframes on a faceframe clamp table, but you can rig something to approximate it.
I build them upside down, and backside up, so I can access the holes with the pocket screws.
Place right stile on the left upside down and backside up, and left stile on the right, upside down, backside up.

Glue your rail ends, midstile ends, and begin placing things as you go. You'll want to use spacer blocks for common size openings (like 5 inch openings for top drawers etc). Lighthly clamp things in place, and line your parts up with the marks you made in during layout. Measure opening sizes!
Once you have everything lined up, clamp and screw together.

This procedure does assume some kind of right angle corner jig to place your parts against, and clamp to....

Perhaps some part of this will be useful...

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Experience - Adding to the ability to get into trouble, the ability to get out of it.