WWA Info Exchange

Thanks in advance all- y'all have so much more experience at this and I appreciate any advice you can give.

I'm starting the 4 drawers for our kitchen cabinets tomorrow... I've purchased plenty of 1/2 cherry in 5 inch widths and also have bought some 1/4 baltic birch ply for the bottoms. I plan to do through dovetails for the front and am not quite sure what I am doing for the back... I'll have the jig set up for the dovetails, so I may go ahead and dovetail them, but I may end up doing a different joint such as a dado and rabbet etc... anyway, on to my questions....

1. I'm using cherry. I plan to put the wood out into the sun to darken a bit. Should I do so before or after I assemble them? I'm assuming after as I will have already planed the dovetails etc, but wanted to make sure.

2. Should I use any finish? I know not to use an oil based finish as it will cause smells, but does anyone recommend a different (shellac, water based poly, etc) finish? Amazingly enough, information out there on this subject is tough to find in detail. As these are drawers, they will not be exposed to sunlight much after they are installed, but I'd like to add some protection if possible. I also plan to line the bottoms with clear contact paper.

3. Is it considered a "higher quality" of construction to have full dovetails on the front and back of a drawer? Is this something an estate agent would notice or am I throwing pearls before swine here and should just do a dado/rabbet in the back. The cabinets are standard merillat cabinets but they now have crown molding and have blum soft close features and knobs so they now appear to be a decent quality cabinet (other than the fake maple printed hardboard interiors)

4. I'm using blum "solo" undermount slides and am refering to the blum website for drawer construction specs. Any/all advice from anyone out there that has used these slides would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice (other than hand cutting the dt's )
Lawrence

I use dados on the drawer backs. I doubt that dovetails there would add any value to the house. I prefer no finish on the inside of drawers, especially kitchen drawers. I do sand the interiors smooth.

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Jess
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It sounds like you have a great project ahead. I don't know about "sunning" the cherry, but why not let time develope the result, don't rush it.

I'm not a big fan of thru-dovetails on drawer fronts, other than specialty boxes or unique furniture. With the right wood combination it is spectacular, the setting is also a factor. Have you thought about half blind tails for the fronts?

I would dove tail front and back, it just seems more apropriate for the use and who cares about the value. You'll know what's in there everytime you pull one open.

I use poplar for drawer sides and apply a sanding sealer, I'm not an expert, but there is no need to "finish" a drawer interior. I don't know that I would apply an interior cover, let the wood breath as intended.

Drawers are a lot of fun, enjoy the project and share the results.

Sounds good!

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Hey Lawrence,
I wish we had discussed this in my shop. I'm putting cherry drawers with 1/4" ply bottoms for the piece you saw. The cherry I was fortunate enough to get is QS and therefore pretty stable but I still don't believe I would subject it to the Arizona sun ... unless I got really mad at it.
Traditionally 1/2 blind dovetails are used for the front (when the front piece is also the drawer face) and the back is through dovetails. However, the Lock-Rabbet drawer joint is a quick and easy joint made on the table saw and is (at least) as strong as dovetails. No inspector would criticize those joints. With what you are doing, I would think it is the best way to go. You can do a lot of them very quickly with very little set up time and lower risk of error.
As for the finish .... shellac is a great sealer, dries quickly ... could darken the cherry (amber shellac) and does not smell.
Looking forward to seeing the results.
good luck,
Don

I believe I would use the same dovetail joint on the rear of the drawer as the front, whether it be through or blind. As you've said, you will already have it set up on the DT jig and besides, it'll be good practice.

Plus, we already know that it's one of the strongest joints out there and kitchen drawers do tend to get a lot of use/abuse....

I will soon be setting up for a run of 30+ drawers for our kitchen/pantry cabinets and I'll probably be using my Freud Drawer Lock Miter router bit for those just to speed up the process. And because I don't have DT jig but I do have the router bit. But I'm not trying to make fine furniture, just something that will work without failure. I'm also not worried about resale in the future because I'm living in the last house I'll ever own....

And my grandkids will be able to say "Granpa made this when...."

Skyrider

Just as a practical suggestion; light colored drawer interiors in the kitchen make it much easier to find stuff, so I would not darken the cherry at all. Same with other kitchen cabinetry.

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I also agree with 1/2 blind dovetails all around. I always do it that way.

The nice part about using dovetails all around is that the front and back pieces are exactly the same length.

And you are performing one operation. Adding a dado for the back of the drawer adds more time for setup, and makes the calculation for width of the back subject to error.


You will not go wrong with this setup.

Good luck,
Darryl

Flush fronts, an unusual choice that shows they're home made. May I assume you're making flush cabinet doors as well, to maintain the style? I wouldn't have the courage or patience to do them that way. Takes too much fiddle. More power to you.

Overlay drawer fronts are so easy, whether they derive from half-blind DTs or from an applied front, plus they make it easy to hide side glides. If you went that way you'd make BB boxes with either through DT or box joints and that would be it. With through DT work you're committed to a center glide which won't adequately support heavier weight at full extension. The silverware and "junk" drawers at our house are pretty heavy.

Might as well make the opposite end conventionally so you can save a chunk of that cherry, unless price there is as here, where BB 1/2" is more expensive than solid.

Man, I sure appreciate all the advice!

I guess I wasn't specific about my intentions... I have painted false fronts that will be screwed onto the drawers... I am only making the drawer boxes. This, and the ease on my jig, is making me lean toward through dovetails- though I sure appreciate all the different alternatives offered.

Thanks again all, I'll be sure to post pics

Lawrence

Lawrence,

Based on my recent experience with the Merillat "Deluxe" cabinets, you would be consistent with their styling if you used through dovetails on the front and back although using a mortise in the back would be perfectly acceptable as well. I'm guessing that you are not targeting super high-end buyers who would be willing to spring for more craftsmanship in the drawers and would be picky about whether there were dovetails in the back or not. Keep the project easy unless you have a critical need (heavy loads in the drawers all the time) that requires you to do all dove tails.

Caleb

LAWRENCE: You've probably already considered this in making the contact paper liner decision: however, just in case, it may be more time efficient if you coat the bottoms w/ shellac, sand smooth then apply paper before assembly. Also is spraying the interiors with lacquer out of the question? If done before assembly your weather conditions, I would think, would make for a quick dry time and an excellent interior finish. Just quick thoughts.

Also while in SD did you go down the strand on Coronado and see the "elephant cage" antenna? I was amazed, when I was on vac there years ago, to see it. Brought back some memories of interesting times.

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