WWA Info Exchange

For Woodworkers By Woodworkers
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 3:47 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:54 am 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:34 pm
Posts: 836
Location: Elk Grove,CA
Last fall I hooked up with a taxidermist neighbor friend and he asked me to make some base plates for him to mount his work on. Will I made several types of rounds and ovals, mostly of red oak and walnut. Then he asked for a really big oval for a striped bass he was working on a 22X42 made of red oak. I would do a edge glue up, rough cut a oval and sand it with 320 grit Abranet and route a round over or a roman gee edge on it. Stain it with Minwax golden oak. His next project was a wood and glass display case for a pintail duck, with removal glass. I never done one before, but I gave it a shot. OH BTW he wanted welded or leaded glass seams and antique looking. Oh well off to the glass shop asking a million questions. This was my second one, the glass fit so tight one can hear the air rush out putting the glass over the duck.22X16X16. The wood was red oak molding. Bob, my taxidermy buddy did the diorama, turned out great, unfortunately the shipper dropped it and it severely damaged it in San Diego and had to be sent to a local taxidermist and glass shop for repair. The repair taxidermist say it was the best glass case he seen in 40 years. Repair cost to case and duck $1000. Bob, being a duck hunter wanted a turned duck call, I made these, there from a Penn State kit and hard maple finished to 1000 grit with Abranet, He said, first time out he got 2 mallards and 2 teals with them.
Image
See "red oak 10inch plate"

Image
See "bass base plate 22x42"

Image
See "pintail in case"

Image
See "Black and White calls"

_________________
I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:13 pm 
Offline
Veteran

Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2007 6:09 pm
Posts: 1172
Location: Indiana, brookville
Sounds like a nice side line you got going there. Nice work on the glass case, and calls.

_________________
If you don't have time to do it right the first time when are you going to find time to do it again.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:16 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 9:37 pm
Posts: 5398
Location: Tucson, AZ
those are some GREAT looking projects-- it's a shame the damage was done to the case, but the compliment was nice.

The routed pieces look awesome-- I don't see any end grain tearout, and that is tough to do for sure (especially in oak)

Nice to see you back up and on the board again too,
Lawrence


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:21 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:34 pm
Posts: 836
Location: Elk Grove,CA
hey Lawrence, good to see ya, I was lucky on the oak end grain, what gave me the trouble was doing the walnut. But I did about 20 of the base plates so I got pretty good at them, glad you enjoyed the pics.

_________________
I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:50 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:01 am
Posts: 9296
Location: Aurora CO
Beautiful work Tom! Love the case. How did you manage to avoid the tear out on the endgrain. It always gives me fits.

_________________
Frank
WWACOAUX#1
"I love the smell of Sawdust in the morning, it smells like, victory." Image
WWA'ers I've met: Popeye, Ed Avery, Stephen Wolf, Rockfish, Rodedon


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:23 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:34 pm
Posts: 836
Location: Elk Grove,CA
Frank, about the subject of end grain tear out, and oak is famous for that. I take thin cuts 3-4 passes on the router and go fast along the long grain but slow way down approching the end grain, thru the end grain and out the back side, then I pick up the speed again on the long grain . When I slow down I DONT mean the motor speed of the router but the speed of the cutting pass. I do get more burn marks when I slow down on the cutting pass of the endgrain, but contour sanding will remove the burn marks. I hope this helps. :wink: :wink:

_________________
I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:35 pm 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:01 am
Posts: 9296
Location: Aurora CO
Great tip! Thanks Tom. I'll try to remember that the next time I have to round over oak. Knowing my wife, that should be pretty soon. :wink:

_________________
Frank
WWACOAUX#1
"I love the smell of Sawdust in the morning, it smells like, victory." Image
WWA'ers I've met: Popeye, Ed Avery, Stephen Wolf, Rockfish, Rodedon


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:40 pm 
Offline
Veteran

Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:05 pm
Posts: 59
Location: southwest Minnesota
that is a great case . i also do a lot of different bases and case for a friend how has a taxidermy business . i was wondering if there is a special led peace used for making the case?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:00 am 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:34 pm
Posts: 836
Location: Elk Grove,CA
I use the foil -solder system. Thats where copper foil tape 3/8 wide and about 100 ft long roll. You tape the edge and sides of the piece of glass that you want to weld together so it forms a U around the glass and using 50/50 solder weld the edges together with a solder iron NOT a solder gun to form a cube. Some glass shops will have the materials for the job. stain glass shops not the auto or home glass shops. :wink:

_________________
I said to Orv and Wil many times this sucker will fly
Tom Taylor


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:52 am 
Offline
Veteran

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 12:01 am
Posts: 2261
Location: Hampstead, MD, USA
pilot1022 wrote:
I use the foil -solder system. Thats where copper foil tape 3/8 wide and about 100 ft long roll. You tape the edge and sides of the piece of glass that you want to weld together so it forms a U around the glass and using 50/50 solder weld the edges together with a solder iron NOT a solder gun to form a cube. Some glass shops will have the materials for the job. stain glass shops not the auto or home glass shops. :wink:


There's an article in the most recent FWW on doing leaded glass that lists some sources and describes how to do this (I think). Sounds similar to what you're describing here.

_________________
John


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:57 am 
Offline
Veteran
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 3072
Location: Lakeport NY (Syracuse)
Wow, beautiful work! If the Repair was $1000, I shudder to think what the whole job cost the end consumer.

_________________
Ned

Madison Woodsmith.
WWACNYAUX #1
2B1ASK1


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 53 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group